LOAD-BEARING WALLS AND BEAMS · MONTGOMERY COUNTY, PA

Load-bearing wall removal in Montgomery County, PA

The wall comes out. The load gets a new path to the ground.

We take out load-bearing walls and put in the beam that carries the house in their place. From $8,000 for a single-story wall with an engineered beam. With steel, a flush beam or a second floor above, $12,000 to $25,000. We also replace basement jack posts with permanent steel columns on new footers, from $2,500.

What a wall and beam job with us includes

From $8,000 for a single-story wall.

That is a wall with a roof and ceiling above it and no second floor, opened up with an engineered beam set below the ceiling. Read it as a starting point. Your own number comes after we have seen what the wall carries.

  • We find out what the wall holds up. We read the framing from the basement and the attic before anyone prices anything.
  • Temporary walls go up on both sides. They carry the ceiling while the wall is out, so the house stays livable.
  • The beam goes in with a post at each end. Each post lands on framing that carries it down to the foundation.
  • The wires in the wall get moved.
  • The ceiling and walls are patched and ready for paint.
  • Demolition, dust protection and daily cleanup. A zipped containment wall and an air scrubber, the same as on our kitchens.
  • A written log every day, with photos, and a two-year workmanship warranty.

The engineer and the permit.

Taking out a load-bearing wall is a structural change. In Pennsylvania a structural change to a house needs a building permit from your township or borough, and the township will want the beam and its supports on paper.

An engineer sizes the beam for the load. Both are listed as their own lines on your proposal, never buried.

Pricing

What moves the number.

Every one of these gets talked through and priced before you sign.

  • What sits on the wall. A roof and a ceiling is the low end. A second floor, a bathroom or another wall stacked on top means more load, a bigger beam and more work at each end.
  • A flush beam. Hiding the beam up in the ceiling means cutting the joists and hanging them from the beam. It looks cleaner and it costs more than a beam you can see.
  • Steel. Steel carries more in less depth, so it is the answer for a long opening or a low ceiling. We fabricate and set our own steel.
  • What is inside the wall. A drain stack, a heating run or a panel feed has to go somewhere else.
  • Where the ends land. If there is nothing solid under a post, it gets a new column or a new footer in the basement.
  • The floor. Where the wall stood there is a gap in the flooring. Patching hardwood to match is its own line.
How it goes

Photos, the walkthrough, the proposal, the build.

If the wall is part of a kitchen remodel, it is designed and priced inside the kitchen.

1

Send a few photos

The wall from both sides, the room above it and the basement below it.

2

The walkthrough

We read the framing and tell you what the wall carries and which price range you are in.

3

The proposal

A wall and beam job has no design fee. You get the whole job on paper, what is included and what is not, and the number.

4

The build

Temporary walls, the beam, the posts, the patch. A written log every day until the final walkthrough.

Recent structural work

A steel column under a bathroom.

Under a bathroom we remodeled this fall, the floor joists sat on a beam in the basement, and the beam sat on a telescoping jack post. The footer under the post had no steel in it. We shored the beam and broke out the old footer. We built a new footer with a full rebar mat held up off the bottom, so the steel sits inside the concrete where it belongs.

The column is Schedule 40 steel pipe, cut to within a sixteenth of an inch of the height, with a plate welded on each end, primed and painted before it went in. We poured the footer on a Friday and set the column the next Friday. Upstairs, the old bathroom joists came out and the new floor was framed level.

The walkthrough

Not every wall is load-bearing.

Sometimes the wall between a kitchen and a dining room carries nothing and comes out with no beam. The work is moving the switch, the outlet and the heating run inside it. Finding that out before the price is written is the point of the walkthrough.

Where we work

Montgomery County, PA.

Jenkintown, Glenside, Wyndmoor, Flourtown, Oreland, Dresher, Fort Washington, Maple Glen, Ambler, Lower Gwynedd, Blue Bell, Plymouth Meeting, Lafayette Hill, Elkins Park, Horsham and the rest of Montgomery County, PA.

Questions we get on the first call

Load-bearing walls, answered plainly.

How do I know if a wall is load-bearing?

Three clues. The floor joists above run across the wall and rest on it. There is a beam or another wall directly under it in the basement. It sits near the middle of the house. We read the framing from the basement and the attic, and if we still cannot tell, we open a small hole in the ceiling before anyone prices anything.

Do I need a permit to remove a load-bearing wall in Pennsylvania?

Yes. Taking out a load-bearing wall is a structural change, and under Pennsylvania's Uniform Construction Code a structural change to a house needs a building permit from your township or borough. Expect the township to ask for the beam and its supports on paper.

Steel beam or wood beam?

An engineered wood beam handles most single-story openings and costs less. Steel carries more in less depth, so it is the answer for a long opening, a second floor above, or a beam hidden up in the ceiling. An engineer sizes either one.

What does it cost to remove a load-bearing wall in Montgomery County, PA?

From $8,000 for a single-story wall with an engineered beam. With steel, a flush beam or a second floor above, $12,000 to $25,000. The engineer and the permit are their own lines. A new steel column on a new footer starts at $2,500.

My basement has an adjustable jack post under the beam. Is that a problem?

It can be. The building code calls for a steel column of at least 3 inch Schedule 40 pipe, or an approved equivalent, held in place at the bottom. Many telescoping jack posts are sold as temporary support. If one has been holding up a beam for years, send a photo of it top to bottom and we will tell you what we see.

Can you jack my sagging floor back up to level?

Sometimes, and we find out before we promise it. Many older houses around here have a basement slab only an inch or two thick, poured over dirt. It cannot take a jack. The load has to reach a real footer. In a bathroom remodel the better answer is often to support the framing where it is and build the new floor level on top of it.

If the numbers line up, let's talk about your wall.

Send us a few details and Karl will get back to you, usually the same day. The first conversation costs nothing, and you'll come away knowing roughly where your numbers land and whether we're the right fit.

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